The river is suddenly a rich burnt sienna, indicating that last night's storm must have dumped a lot of water into side canyon's upstream.
Once again that someone keeps changing his mind about what boat he is in and today I have no patience for it. AJM and I have hardly gotten to sit together and today I'm going to insist on it and let others make readjustments. I ask Chuck if AJM and I can ride with him and then I load up our stuff. "Plan your run and run your plan."
I finally decide to row the dory. The first time, I tired after a few minutes and panicked when I got caught in an eddy than seemed to threaten to send me into a rocky shore. But later, when I'd finished my book and the water was very still and there was no wind, I decided to try it again. This time I rowed longer and had more fun.
We pull off the river just short of Separation Canyon. Some tempers are a bit short and there is a question if someone has been drinking enough water. Chuck briefs us on tomorrow's procedure. We'll all ride the motor rig until we the power boat which will take us to Lake Mead picks us up. Then Chuck asks if anyone wants to take the short hike to see the cenotaph in Separation Canyon. Everyone seems sort of worn down, but one person says yes, so we go. I think we all have the attitude that as long as we're here, we might as well do it. After all, who knows when we'll be in the neighborhood again?
We pull in to Travertine Falls. It's a five-minute walk to the beautiful falls and always a wonderful feeling to stand in cool, clear water. Lunch is on a sunny, uncomfortable ledge below the Falls. Hawk and I find the only shade and everyone seems in a hurry to move on. I wish now that the heat hadn't sapped so much of my energy. Looking back on it I wish I had explored more.
I call our last campsite Cicada Lake. When I walk into a large clearing above the river, hundreds of cicadas take to the air. Hundreds more stay in the tamarisk. I think it's the first time I've seen the cicadas themselves and not just their husks. The view downriver is stunning. The canyon is starting to right itself again. I imagine it must have been discouraging for Powell and his group. The last day and a half, it really looked like the canyon was petering out and we'd be out of it at any moment.
Chuck and SAM set off a fireball.
We have a nice steak dinner. The blocks of ice that kept the food cold for 13 days aren't needed any more and so the ice chest is filled and the drinks are very cold.
