Thursday August 24, 1989

Accounts

¥100 4 photo reprints
¥2146 groceries
¥310 beer (a liter, I’m guessing)
¥67 consumption tax
¥2623 Total

  • 8:30-11:40. Supplemental lessons.
  • Pick up photos.


Japanese apartment

Postmark: Beppu August 24, 1989

Today I taught my first class and it went well. My work schedule has been pretty light. I’ve been at school only about three hours each morning. However, when the regular school terms starts on September 1st, it’ll be a typical 9-5 workday.

Tomorrow is payday and on Saturday I’m going to Oita City, the capital city of Oita-ken, to do some shopping. Prices are about the same [as in America] on most things. If you shop around, some things are incredibly cheap. On the other hand, if you buy food at the gourmet shops or if you buy American products or dairy products, they seem expensive. But Japan has its discount stores, just like K-MART, so you can find bargains. I haven’t done much souvenir shopping. Right now I’m just looking, comparing prices, quality, and local crafts.

Japanese apartment

Enclosed is a photo showing the inside of our apartment. We have two tatami rooms like the one shown. The closets behind JQS are about 3 feet deep and hold our futons and all our junk. So it’s pretty easy to keep things neat. The room from which I’m taking the photos has my desk, a metal cabinet, a book shelf, and our brand new 20″ Hitachi bilingual color TV. The school ordered it for us because they wanted us to stay informed of world events. So while one room remains uncluttered and Japanese, the other is becoming Army-surplus American. I’ve put up some photos and the apartment is starting to feel like home.

Notes from 2009

I cashed in a traveller’s check and got ¥28324. Maybe this is the day that Murakami-sensei took me to Oita-shi to open my bank account so that my paycheck could be deposited.

 

Wednesday August 23, 1989

  • 8-12: School. First day students are at school.
  • Self-introduction to staff and then to student body.
  • 14:00. TV delivered to apartment.

Postmark: Beppu August 23, 1989

1000 cranes–well, one, anyway. If I write 1000 aerogrammes this year, I guess that will be my 1000 cranes.

Okay. Are you the one that ratted to CNN and told them that I wasn’t receiving any news broadcasts in my “remote village” in Japan? Or did you, perchance, write to my school and tell them that it was an international disgrace that their AET was completely ignorant of current world affairs? I remember telling Tonai-sensei only yesterday, as we stopped in at his house for a peach and a bicycle how glad I was not to have a TV. “If we had a TV, I said, “we would never study.” And given how slowly our studies are progressing, that would be disastrous indeed.

[Did I register the look of concerned shock on Tonai-sensei's face at my offhand remark. I didn't yet understand that when he said, "You should have a TV." that he meant "We think you should have a TV and so we're getting you one."] And so today, Tonai-sensei came to my desk and whispers, “Kocho-sensei [the principal, ever known only by his title] thinks you should keep up with the news. So someone will deliver a TV to your apartment at 2PM. Is that a good time for you?”

So there it sits in the corner–an incredibly beautiful, brand new Hitachi 20-inch color TV with stereo sound and a bilingual switch on the remote. Dare I demur?

Tonai-sensei spent 2 1/2 hours reading the television schedule to me, line-by-line–even after I pointed out that I’d be at work for most of the shows he was explaining to me. However, I dutifully watched the news at 6:30. Some guy kidnapped three little girls and then videotaped their nude dead bodies. The Japanese are unhappy about their 3% consumption tax and want to overthrow (or perhaps already did overthrow) their government in order to repeal it. And the Japanese are unhappy that more Vietnamese boat people have landed in Okinawa.

We did watch “Little House on the Prairie” because it was the only other bilingual program that we found. [...]

Today I had to give an introductory speech, in Japanese, first to the other teachers in my staff room and then to the entire student body. I had practiced it quite a bit but when I faced all those people, my mind went blank. I muddled through it. Oh well, no one seems to care what I accomplish as long as I try.

Tomorrow, I give my first class. My team teacher can’t be there so I’m flying solo the first time out.She spent about half an hour telling me not to become discouraged if the students say absolutely nothing during the whole class. Remember, I’m teaching conversational English. But, as you well know, I’m good at monologues.

 

Tuesday August 22, 1989

  • 9-12: School.
  • Pick up shopping bicycle from Tonai-sensei.

Postmark: Beppu August 22, 1989

It was so good to look in my mailbox and see your letter in it! My first one (not that I’ve received but that I’ve received at home. The others went to the school because apparently the postal worker didn’t know I was actually living here.)

[...] I guess I’m thinking about computers today because I got my first lesson in using a Japanese word processor this morning. (And you thought DecWord was cumbersome!) The problem, of course, is that I can’t read the menus, the keypad, or any status or error messages. However, I’m familiar enough with word processing concepts that I learned how to turn it on, load a program, open and write to a file, delete, scroll, cut and paste, change character sets, and print!

I really enjoyed using a computer and using computer jargon. The computer teacher, Abe-sensei, is a very young guy, who seemed happy to have a student who actually enjoyed playing around with the machine. Among my office staff there’s a distrust–maybe misapprehension is a better word–of that complicated machine.

Notes from 2009

The Shopping Bicycle

Tonai-sensei lent us an old bicycle that had belonged to his son. It had a basket on the handlebars which made it convenient for carrying heavy groceries (cartons of milk or bottles of Aquarius or orange juice) even if I pushed it. The bicycle was heavy with no gears (or maybe three). Many of the housewives had something similar. It was too large for JQS to manage but he tried anyway. Once he ran straight into the [post man/bank man] on his scooter. We would ride double into Beppu and then take the train back. The next time we’d take the train and ride back to Kamegawa. The bicycle had a built-in lock so that you could leave it at the train station. It also had a light which was powered the pedaling the bicycle. I’d never seen anything like it and thought it a clever idea. Once a policeman yelled Dame! at us. I had to ask Murakami-sensei what that meant. (Not allowed!). Kids rode on the handle bars and backs of bicycles all the time, even carrying open umbrellas.

Postal Service

Looking at the way that my Japanese address was mangled but people writing to me, it’s a wonder that I received any mail from the states. I think they figured that if it was in English, it must belong to me as I was the only foreigner in Kamegawa at the time. Initially they bundled it with the school mail but then they realized (or were informed) that I was living in the high school dorm.

 

Monday August 21, 1989

Accounts

¥870 deli: sashimi for 2
¥270 train
Beppu – Kamegawa
¥291 groceries: orange juice
¥320 laundry bag
¥44 consumption tax
¥1795 Total

  • From today through 8/24, school day for JQS.
  • 09:00-12:00. School day for MSS.
  • Pick up alien registration card.

 

Sunday August 20, 1989

Accounts

¥3240 Train
Hita-Kamegawa
¥260 groceries
¥7 consumption tax
¥3507 Total

Postmark: Hita

Yesterday JQS and I took the train two hours west to the town of Hita where another AET (Assistant English Teacher) lives. Amy Thomas is from Toledo; like me, she is assigned to a private school. Her school found her a house and it’s like a mansion–especially by Japanese standards–and only ¥20000 a month rent (about $150, which is cheap).

The kitchen is larger than the one in your apartment. It’s a big L-shaped house. One wing has two tatami rooms: a 6-mat room and an 8-mat room with a tokonoma [display alcove].

traditional Japanese house, Hita 1989

The other wing has the kitchen and a 6-mat room that’s surrounded by an enclosed wooden porch overlooking a Japanese garden. There are two more rooms upstairs.

traditional Japanese house, Hita 1989
This is a very poor photo because of the back-lighting but I wanted to remember the huge porch and the lovely Japanese garden, complete with stone lantern and decorative rocks.

This house is so great. I wouldn’t mind having one just like it in the states. [...] There is this incredible sense of spaciousness that is totally lacking everywhere else I’ve been in Japan. All I want to do is to look out the windows into the garden and let all my pent up feelings of claustrophobia float away.

Anyway, we came up to Hita to visit Amy and be American for a little while. We had a barbecue and rented two American movies. Amy has a TV and a VCR. Basking in the glow of the television, I realized that all sensation of living in Japan had momentarily faded. It felt just like an ordinary evening at home, drinking beer, talking about not much in particular, and watching movies on the VCR. [...]

A breeze is blowing through the house. It is sunny and warm like a May day in Austin. Amy is reading. I am writing to you. And JQS is watching another rental movie. [...]

 

Saturday August 19, 1989

Accounts

¥3240 train
Kamegawa-Hita
¥100 machine drink
¥600 video rental
Ferris Bueller, The Hunger
¥500 omiyage for office

Postmark: Beppu August 19, 1989

Today JQS and I are off to another small town, Hita, where another AET (assistant English teacher, like me) lives. We’re going to barbecue and shop and act American!

As you can tell by all the edits in this letter, I’m dying here without my Mac. The first thing I’m buying on payday is a word processor. So watch out. The next letter may be in kanji.

Postmark: Beppu, August 26, 1989

[On Thursday] I told Tonai-sensei and Murakami-sensei that I was going to Hita for the weekend so they wouldn’t plan anything for us. They exchanged worried glances but said nothing.

However, [yesterday] they were armed with maps and train schedules. Murakami-sensei had called the bus station and the train station to check routes and prices. Should we take the bus (for which we needed reservations) the express train (which is more expensive than the local train but goes straight through), or the local train (which is slow and requires that we switch in Oita City)?

You understand that I have no say in this decision. Whatever they decide for me is what I will do. What we sometimes mistake for kindness is closer to a sense of duty and with it comes many obligations. They are in charge of me. If I get sick or lost or do something stupid, I make them look bad. In turn our school, the JET program, and even the prefectural government could look bad. They have to do what they can to keep me out of trouble and, in turn, I also have an obligation which involves giving up a lot of who I am and what I want for the good of the group.

After two hours of pouring over train schedules, drawing diagrams of the Oita train station, practicing phrases in Japanese such as “I’d like two tickets to Hita.” and “Excuse me, is this the train to Hita?” I think we are all set. Maybe I’m not a good student because my teachers evidently had second thoughts (which they did not share with me) about letting me go it alone.

Today Tonai-sensei drives us to the Kamegawa train station and transacts the purchase of the tickets for us. When we get to Oita station, we are surprised to find Murakami-sensei waiting on the platform. What a coincidence running into her. Where is she off to? Nowhere. On her day off she is compelled to buy a ticket to meet our train and wait with for us 40 minutes until we are safely on the train to Hita.

As we are finally away, I think “Free at last! Now I can kick back, act American, and not watch everything I do and say.” When we get to Hita, I spot Amy at the station. I run over to her and standing behind her is her teacher, Kajiwara-sensei. He thought that since I was coming to Hita, he’d spend the weekend with us showing us around town.

Journal

Last Sunday Amy (the private school JET in Hita) called up and asked us over. I don’t think that Hita is that far away but it seems far because there is only a local train and that takes almost two hours from Oita. The train is packed and we have to stand for a long time. The farm wives and grannies express pity for JQS and encouragement, alternating between saying kawaisoh [poor little dude] and gambatte [hang in there]. One offers him some candy.

Amy meets us at the station and we walk to her house. She has an old Japanese house with a garden to herself. I’m so envious. It’s an L-shaped house with the kitchen in the corner of the L. One wing is a one-story and is two formal rooms, an eight-mat room and a six-mat room. The other wing, which is two-storys has two bedrooms upstairs, the kitchen and another room where she has the TV and her futon. She seems to camp out in this one part of the house and ignore the rest.

Amy used to teach English in Germany and although she’s travelled a lot more than I have, she seems to have a much more difficult time adjusting to the Japanese rhythm of things. Maybe it’s because she has something “foreign” to compare it with and I don’t. She doesn’t seem to be happy with her house because it’s old and too big and empty…all the reasons that I fell in love with it at first sight.

Hirose Museum HitaHirose Museum, Hita-shi, Oita-ken

Her liaison comes over and takes us to the Hirose Tanso Museum and an old-fashioned restaurant.

That evening we walk up to the video store and get “The Hunger” and “Daddy-Long-Legs” *.
Note: We have conflicting memories on which videos we watched. We both remember “The Hunger” but JQS remembers watching “Innerspace” and I wrote down “Ferris Bueller” in the daybook. Maybe we watched all four or maybe we watched two of them on another visit.

Note from 2003-11-12

A funny thing that happened when I was with Amy. After a month in Japan, I was desperate to speak English with another native speaker. But when I was with her that weekend, I “cursed like a sailor”–swearing much more than I normally do.

Thinking about it now, I wonder if using very informal language, even rough language, was an attempt to force our relationship into an immediate intimacy–providing the illusion that we were old friends who could say anything to each other.

There are level of politeness in English, too; they just aren’t codified by grammar. Even though people (well Americans anyway) like to pretend there are no rules, they’re there and people obey them or break them to produce certain effects.

 

Friday August 18, 1989

Accounts

¥600 JQS school health certificate
¥600 Total

  • 9-12: School.
  • Tonai-sensei and his wife drive us to Bungo Takada.
  • Dinner at the Hayashi’s house.
  • Bon odori.
  • Spend the night at the Hayashi’s.

Postmark: Bungo Takada

[...] I spent the night dancing in a circle with about 1000 other people at the Bon Festival. Bon is a Buddhist festival for the souls of the dead–sort of like All Soul’s Day, I think. But there was not much religious presence at the bon odori [bon dance]. It’s basically an excuse to party.

One of the Japanese teachers of English, Mr. Tonai, has inlaws who live in Bungo Takada, which is renowned locally for its bon odori. [Note 2009: Tonai-sensei always referred to them as his wife's brother's family...so to me they will always be "Tonai-sensei's wife's brother's family. In English, however, they are the Hayashi family."]

Bungo Takada is about a 50-minute drive north of here through beautiful mountain countryside. The greenery reminded me of the area around Seattle but the character of the place is closer to that of the drive between Santa Fe and Taos. At any rate it was great to get out of town and be able to see things at a distance. After awhile, these little winding streets make one very claustrophobic.

[The Hayashis] have a huge house in the middle of the rice fields–so it was very quiet. They had prepared a feast for us.

At the Hayashi house in Bungo Takada
At the Hayashi family’s house.

When the Japanese entertain, they go all out. They spare no expense. Whether someone is visiting us or we’re out with them, they are continually buying us little gifts–usually of food–and sometimes not so little. For example, the Japanese are crazy about French pastry and there are dozens of pastry shops around. It seems to be the one Western food they make that actually tastes like Western food. Anyway, they also buy this French-style gelatin that is expensive for Jello but comes beautifully wrapped. (Wrapping is a big deal here. If you get a present from a Japanese, don’t trash the wrapping! Not that I would anyway. I’ve always been a paper saver and the paper here is gorgeous.) They are keen on “coffee jelly”, basically coffee-flavored Jello. I actually like it and I’ve never cared much for Jello. Is this a European thing? [...]

After dinner, Mrs. Hayashi dressed me for the bon odori in a yukata (summer kimono), obi (sash), and geta (wooden sandals).

Dressing in yukata for Bon Odori

Then we went to the Bungo Takada town square. They had set up a stage festooned with lanterns, a taiko (large traditional Japanese drum), and some singers. About 1000 people, all dressed in yukata were dancing in long lines circling around the stage.

Bungo Takada Bon Odori

This wasn’t some free-for-all disco dance. Everyone was doing the same dance together. Every neighborhood and office in town had it’s own team. Basically it was a huge dance contest. The Hayashis talked JQS and me into joining their team.

Bungo Takada Bon Odori
Notice that the other women are wearing tabi, white “socks” with a toe for wearing with geta. At US size 7 1/2, my feet were too big so I had to go without–like the men.

I couldn’t figure out the dance at all but it was still a lot of fun. We danced for about two hours and in that time circled the stage only four times.

After dancing we came back to the house and ate and drank numerous liters of Kirin beer. They gave me my costume so some day I can show it off to you guys.

Notes from 2009

Mrs. Hayashi and Mrs. Tonai made a photo album for me with all the photos from our visit. They wrote cute Japanese captions which I couldn’t read at the time. Today, twenty years later, I finally understood one of their messages: 「あの時の,ありがとうは、忘れない。」”For that time, thanks. We won’t forget.”

Thank YOU. I won’t ever forget, either.

 

Thursday August 17, 1989

Accounts

¥2632 Kotobukiya (w/Tonai)
¥950 16:13 HIHひろせ
film 48 prints 400 ASA (@14¢)
¥350 2 single ice cream
¥106 consumption tax
¥600 unaccounted
¥4638 Total

  • 9-12: School.

Postmark: Beppu

[...]Living here is strange in ways I had not imagined. It’s not the differences in clothing, food, housing, or custom that bothers me. I’d read enough about them to be prepared–and some I prefer to the American way of doing things. Plus, I’m used to not having a dishwasher, air conditioner, television, couch, or a washer/dryer. I’m used to spending a lot of time at home alone, reading or writing or puttering around the house.

The difference is that if I started getting stir crazy in Austin, I’d hop in my car and drive. I might go up to the Arboretum to get ice cream at Amy’s and visit my cows, or go see a movie. Or I’d drive down to Town Lake and watch the bats. I miss my car and I miss movies! I miss reading reviews about movies. I wonder if it’s possible to get a subscription to the Chronicle delivered in Beppu.

I don’t know if it’s like this elsewhere in Japan but living in Kamegawa is like living in a village. (Kamegawa is our little suburb north of Beppu. We live in Kamegawa-chuo-machi [亀川中央町] literally turtle-river-center-of-town, or simply, central Kamegawa.) This is very much a neighborhood in the way that has vanished in the U.S. Most shopkeepers have their houses above their shops. There are green grocers, fish markets, bakeries, and cake shops. Amid these are the rice shops, tea shops, barbershops, and public baths. All the shopkeepers are nice to us. I enjoy going marketing although it takes about an hour out of every day.

[...] One of the Japanese teacher of English, Tonai-sensei, and his wife just took me shopping at the discount store [Kotobukiya] downtown. “Welcome, K-Mart shoppers!” It’s curiously the same although it remains distinctly Japanese in its modernized versions of traditional Japanese goods. I never thought I’d be happy to see the inside of a K-Mart lookalike, but hey–I’m adaptable. Madonna was playing over the store PA and she sounded great!

Housework is very labor-intensive. I go marketing about every day, as does everyone else. One reason it to buy the freshest possible food. (There are almost no frozen foods in our market.) The other is because I can’t carry more than a day’s worth of groceries the 10-block walk home. On Sundays I clean house. This involves chiefly washing the futon covers and airing out the futons. Neguro-san (my neighbor/dorm housemother) lent me a vacumn and it is a godsend for vacumning up the spiders and dust.

Notes from 2009

Inari Sushi

I discovered I really like inari sushi. It was cheap and yummy. But I had no idea what it was made out of. The little “bags” looked like chicken skin. At Kotobukiya, I saw a large display of inari sushi and got the chance to ask Tonai-sensei what they were. It turns out to be deep-fried tofu pockets, abura-age. Now I can just do an internet search and get recipes, photographs, and how to make it demos via YouTube. How strange our difficulties and confusion a mere twenty years ago must seem to people of the 21st century.

Waving vs. Beckoning

I remember wandering the aisles of Kotobukiya and seeing Mrs. Tonai waving to me and JQS from the other end of the store. We smiled and tried to look attentive and figure out what she wanted us to do. This was our first encounter with the beckoning gesture that we foreigners confuse for a wave (although they are quite different).

 

Wednesday August 16, 1989

Postmark: Beppu

A full moon is rising in the east. I see it as I sit here writing at my desk. Each of my tatami-mat rooms has a sliding glass door, which serves as a wall, and window, and door. I moved my desk against the sliding glass door of my room so I could see the sky and a patch of green which are the trees of a hill to the south of our apartment. And now I watch the moon rising [...]

moon rising over Beppu Bay, August 1989

For some reason, my sense of direction has become totally reversed so the rising moon seems like a setting moon. When I look out my window, I get the same directional sense as looking toward the parking lot of my condo. When I go to the roof and look across the bay to Oita city, I feel that I’m looking north toward Town Lake or the capitol building. In fact, it is just the opposite. Kamegawa (the suburb of Beppu where we live) is north of Beppu proper. [...]

But Japan is totally disorienting. Today was gray, cool, and gloomy. Or perhaps my mood was gloomy and transferred that feeling to my impression of the weather. I should have been relieved that it was so cool–like a rainy Austin day in March. I actually turned the fan off and closed the windows because of the chill. But my spirits sank contemplating a winter with no heat if it’s this cool in August.

Today JQS and I had no excursion planned. I have no one to meet, no functions to attend. I have met the Consulate-General in Houston, a variety of ministers from the ministries of Education, Foreign Affairs and Home Affairs, the governor of Oita prefecture, the mayor of Beppu and innumerable bureaucrats. So a day of home study looms before us.

I don’t think I can fit all that I need to learn into my little brain. I have spent the day trying to learn the second syllabary of Japanese characters: katakana. I only learned the frist 20. That is, I can read them. But I can’t write them. I am learning to write the other syllabary, hiragana. The two syllabaries–phonetic symbols–are used primarily to form endings of words or to write foreign words. So I can’t really do much with this scant knowledge, even though it seems like a tremendous effort to have learned this much.

An unnerving sense of isolation sets in. I’ve no news of the world (I can’t read the headlines; I can’t understand the TVs I pass in the department store) nor of home. I can’t use the phone, or drive a car, or buy stamps at the post office, or get money out of the bank, or do anything without asking for help.

Well, that’s not entirely true. I can get lost in my neighborhood, I can take the train to other towns and get lost there. (Ask [...] about our misadventures in Kitsuki. I wrote her about them the other day.) I can buy groceries. The salespeople are great! It’s amazing what you can do without language here. No one in America would treat foreigners with such understanding and good will.

I didn’t mean this letter to be such a downer. It’s frustration, more than homesickness, that I’m feeling. Japan is here; I’m in reach of magical treasures but I can’t unlock the glass case. So I press my face against the pane.

Guess who has a plant right here in Oita-ken? Texas Instrument! So if I do unlock the knowledge of Japan, maybe I can get a job with TI. Or maybe you can and come to Beppu to visit.

I sound worse off in this letter than I feel. But today I felt like a visitor to Austin who was stuck in an apartment off Burnet Rd with no way to get to the capitol, 6th Street, Manuel’s, Town Lake, the Arboretum, or Amy’s Ice Cream. Go give my cows a hug for me. I miss you both.

 

Monday August 14, 1989

ticket Kitsuki Castle

Accounts

¥920 train
Kamegawa-Kitsuki-Kamegawa
¥447 2 ice cream; 2 colas
¥300 admission: Kitsuki Castle
¥360 bus to Kitsuki Eki
¥2560 groceries
¥70 consumption tax
¥4227 Total

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