Sunday September 3, 1989

Accounts

¥920 train: 1.5
Kamegawa-Oita-Kamegawa
¥350 10 B5 notebooks 240-pg
¥800 book: Read Japanese Today
¥2500 book: A Guide to Remembering Kanji
¥1657 groceries
¥200 deli: chicken
¥250 shampoo
¥1395 body care
¥580 Vape (30 pack)
¥310 beer
¥200 present: cake for Abe-sensei
¥100 machine drinks
¥236 consumption tax
¥9498 Total

Postmark: Beppu September 3, 1989

We went shopping in Oita again this weekend. The basement floors of the big department stores always are supermarkets. We discovered one [probably Tokiwa] that had a large western liquor section. And they had Johnny Walker black label, the same size I bought that last night [in Austin] for only ¥3600 ($25.00). So I’m very relieved and happy to know I have a resource for my New Year’s presents. Plus, if I get desperate and dip into the scotch I brought, I’ll be able to replace it. But I haven’t been driven to drinking alone yet, except for the occasional liter of beer from the vending machine down the street. And that’s only if I’ve bought sushi for dinner. Of course, we practically live on sushi. An old woman keeps a take-out shop down the street and I can get six pieces of nigiri-sushi and one tuna roll for ¥400 ($3.00). That’s about the same as one piece of sushi in Austin.

Notes from 2009

Stationery

I found the notebooks on sale on the top floor of Parco. They were really cheap. Maybe it was a back-to-school sale. They were fairly plain notebooks by the standards of Japanese stationery. They came with aqua or pink covers which said.

Seduce Notebook: This notebook is well bound with automatic excellent machine by Bun’undo that is traditional since 1909.

Vape

Vape Mosquito Repellant

Our un-air conditioned apartment was very open to the outdoors. We slept with the sliding glass doors to the balcony open and the screens did little to keep the mosquitoes out. Our dorm mother had brought over the modern equivalent of the mosquito coil, an electric diffuser for Vape mats. Each little mat had some sort of insect repellant. It smelled pretty bad and I wondered if they were carcinogenic so I was reluctant to use them. I couldn’t read the information on the Japanese packaging. But the mosquitoes were numerous, so I solved the immediate problem and tried to put my fears about long-term consequences out of my mind. Twenty years later, this is what I discovered about Vape, on the Internet.

 

Saturday September 2, 1989

Accounts

¥170 50-pg calligraphy notebook
¥450 stationery: 10 sheets 5 envelopes
¥100 2 word card decks @¥50
¥1064 groceries
¥43 consumption tax
¥1827 Total

 

Friday September 1, 1989

Accounts

¥170 bread
¥170 Total

Notes from 2009

Loaf of Bread

Even loaves of bread were different in Japan. Loaves of sliced white bread came wrapped in plastic bags, like in America. But the loaves, all the same size, could be bought in varying widths determined by the number of slices in the loaf; the more slices, the thinner the slice. I suppose the concept is comparable to “thin-sliced” or “sandwich slice” or “Texas toast” sliced bread. The loaves were smaller but they did not include any end pieces. End pieces were bagged separately for stuffing. I thought this was a marvelous innovation. No one was stuck with the crusty end piece.

Our usual breakfast was toast and coffee. We liked the 5-sliced loaves because it made toast which was deeply golden on the outside and slightly soft on the inside. Hmmm. I guess that would be Texas toast.

First Day of School

Although all sorts of classes and meetings had been going on at the school throughout August, this was the official first day of the second term of school. Summer vacation interrupts the Japanese school year which starts on April 1st. So classes and routines were already settled. The half days at work I’d been attending helped me (and everyone who had to interact with me) make a smoother transition into school life. I was the first JET participant to come to Beppu Joshi and so no one on either side really knew what to expect or what to do. I was really glad to “belong” to a school. I think I would have felt very disoriented and lonely if I had worked at the prefectural official and had been assigned only to school visits, as many JET participants were.

 

Thursday August 31, 1989

Accounts

¥1500 JQS, field trip
¥100 machine drink
¥100 postage: letter
¥400 postage: 5 aerograms
¥130 JQS: 50 pg B5 notepad
¥278 groceries
¥1060 deli sushi: 1 lunch 2 dinners
¥11 consumption tax
¥3579 Total

Credit: ¥7050. Travel expense reimbursement

Postmark: Beppu Sunday September 3, 1989

I went to play tennis with about eight other teachers the day before school started. There is a recreation center in Hiji about 30 minutes drive north of here. It’s like a huge private country club but it’s open to the public. It was just completed in April and it makes me think that the Japanese have begun to equate spaciousness with luxuriousness. This facility could compare with the newest ones at UT.

I learned more about playing tennis in this one afternoon than I have in my entire life. Over the years I’ve played on and off with friends. These experiences have supplied plenty of comic relief but no one ever explained how I might play better. The Japanese are so different! I was part of their group and they felt it was their responsibility to help me learn. They showed me how to hold my racket and swing and they each took turns drilling me while the rest of the gang played a game. No one made any deprecating remarks about how bad I was or got impatient with me or acted liked they’d rather be playing for real than teaching me. In the end, I made some improvements.

Notes from 2009

I’m pretty sure that the other teachers in this group were all 2nd year teachers, that is, home room teachers for the junior, ni-nen-sei, class. The P.E. teacher, Yasanami-sensei, was also in charge of the school’s tennis and badminton teams. Washizuka-sensei seemed to love tennis and played much better than I did even though he was nearly twice my age. I didn’t pay for anything on this outing. I don’t remember if it was treated as a guest or whether it came out of some special 2nd year teacher fund.

 

Wednesday August 30, 1989

Accounts

¥100 postage: letter
¥3750 JQS summer PE uniform
¥3900 amusement park
¥1263 groceries
¥310 beer
¥33 consumption tax
¥9356 Total

Notes from 2009

Kijima Korakuen, Kijima Gogen Amusement Park

Murakami-sensei and Tsuda-sensei took me and JQS to Kijima, an amusement park up in Kijima Heights west of Beppu. The only things I remember about it is that I really had fun driving the Skid Racer cars. I’ve missed driving a lot and I’m pretty good at controlling my skids. The little roller coaster looked so rickety and frail that I was afraid to ride on it.

 

Tuesday August 29, 1989

Accounts

¥1400 black garbage pail
¥200 postage: 2 letters
¥540 train
Kamegawa-Beppu-Kamegawa
¥100 red inkpad (for inkan)
¥100 glue
¥100 4 red hooks w/suction cups
¥798 towel rack w/suction cups
¥100 red plastic mixing bowl
¥298 strainer
¥168 luffa
¥750 Japanese poem flash cards
¥200 machine drinks
¥800 deli sushi for two
¥118 consumption tax
¥5872 Total: 5872

Postmark: Beppu August 29, 1989

I got paid last week and I’m starting to collect those little extras that mark this as my home. For instance, I bought two sleek black plastic garbage pails with lids. (I’m allowed to take out the garbage only on Wednesdays and Saturdays and in this heat and humidity the smell indoors becomes overpowering.) As the label on the garbage pail said, “Functional and Beautiful dust box. We made just to make your life tremendously fun and sophisticated.” Hey! The first one was such a marked improvement on my life that I rushed out and bought another one today. On sale! for only ¥1400 (about $10). In fact, there were dollar days going on (actually ¥100 days, which is about 70 cents). So for ¥100 each I bought hair ribbons, one plastic mixing bowl (where are you going to get a nice mixing bowl in the states for 70 cents?), a 3-pack of glue and an ink pad.

Prices are not horrible here–it’s just that they are not comparable. Some things are ridiculously expensive; others ridiculously cheap. Forget anything imported–coffee, ketchup, Kellogs cereal. But I can get a sushi dinner to go for ¥400 (about $3.00). If you watch the sales, the deals are great.

Beppu doesn’t have any great places to shop. It’s got one big department store, Tokiwa, in a mall called the Cosmopia. It’s sort of like Nieman-Marcus. Very clean, (You should see the bathrooms!), very Western (Ralph Lauren, Bennetons, etc.), and very expensive. But it’s a refreshing contrast to Kamegawa (the suburb where we live), its small, winding streets and its tiny crowded shops.

After a month I’m just beginning to find my way around as a shopper. Only last weekend I discovered the big department stores in Oita City. Bookstores with English-language books and art books. Stores like The Cadeau [in Austin] filled with hi-tech or European-style gifts. It’s quite a bit harder to find Japanese things that aren’t simply kitsch–tourist souvenirs…I saw four lacquerware items that I wanted but at the time seemed expensive. I haven’t found anything comparable so I’ll go back [to Hita] and get them.

Notes from 2009

Changing Perspectives

This letter was written to the girlfriend I shopped with which is why I go into such detail about shopping, as if I were taking her along with me and sharing with her what I thought would most interest her. As I say, I’m just starting to learn my way around. Over two years, I find many small specialty shops and even a few second hand places. I fall in love with the twisted winding streets and the tiny cramped stores. I buy lots of bamboo crafts and lacquerware, Japanese material, paper, and lots of dishes. When I arrived in Japan, all my possessions fit in two large suitcases. When I returned to America, I shipped over twenty boxes of things home.

Buy Only What You Can Carry

I remember the difficulty I had trying to carry all these purchases home. The black garbage pail seemed huge. It took up lots of space on the train and it was awkward lugging it on the 20 minute walk home.

I brought both of those black garbage pails home. I used them as packing containers when I shipped my household goods back from Japan. I still use them 20 years later in the garden to collect rain water or hold gravel mulch. In Texas, they are tiny.

 

Monday August 28, 1989

  • 08:30-11:40. Supplemental lessons.
  • To the beach with Murakami-sensei and her friend (from Nagoya?) John.

Two Austinites were in town for a reunion dinner that I attended Sunday. They made me feel a little homesick for the first time. Ms. Murakami took one of them, John, and me and JQS to a beach in Kitsuki. This one has sand but still no surf.

Accounts

¥5000 inkan
¥600 name rubber stamp
¥12630 JQS plane
Tokyo-Oita
¥1052 groceries
¥310 beer
¥19 consumption tax
¥19611 Total

Notes from 2009

inkan

Inkan

Now that I’ve been paid, I have to repay several expenses that the school covered for me. My most important purchase is my inkan, the seal I affix to official documents (like bank withdrawals). Using my inkan makes me feel like I’ve stamped a royal decree. My inkan is rather unusual because it has romaji (roman letters) on it. Most inkan for foreigners have their names written in katakana script. My full name wouldn’t have fit, so Murakami-sensei had it made for “M Stevens”. As there is no katakana equivalent for the “M”, she gambled and had them put it in romaji. It’s perfect because I’ve always formally signed my name “M Sinclair Stevens” and informally, used just “M”.

I think Nakagawa-sensei provided the little case for my inkan, which I carry with me in my purse at all times.

I also get a rubber stamp of my name for use on school reports. Both the inkan and the rubber stamp have a little indentation so that you can tell which is right side up without looking.

The teachers all have their own rubber stamps and for each class there is a box of student rubber stamps. Whenever a teacher is making up reports (all done by hand), they use the rubber stamps so they don’t have to write each student’s name. They do have computers in this school but they are not used for the huge amounts of paperwork that the teachers generate.

Spelling My Name

Back in year 1, (1989 is Heisei 1–the first year of the new era which began on January 8, 1989), my family name, Stevens, was rendered スチーブンス, (pronounced SU CHEE BU N SU). Then in the 1990s, many katakana equivalents were changed including the spelling of my name, which is now スティーブンズ (pronounced SU TE-EE BU N ZU) so that when I went back to college to study Japanese I no longer knew how to spell my own name.

 

Sunday August 27, 1989

  • Reunion dinner for teachers who visited Austin.

Reunion Bath and Dinner

This evening Murakami-sensei asked that I go with her to a dinner reunion of teachers in the private school association who had chaperoned the summer trip to Austin. Akamine-sensei offers to watch JQS; she has a son the same age that he can play with. She picks us up and drops me off at the hotel on Beppu Bay where the dinner is being held.

Murakami-sensei is not in the lobby and after waiting awhile, I ask the receptionist what room the group is in. Murakami-sensei is not there either. However, three men in hotel yukata (summer kimono) greet me enthusiastically and say that they are on their way to take a bath before dinner. They leave me alone to change and to wonder if we are all going to take a bath together.

Three guys in yukata.
These are the three men, strangers to me, that I got into the elevator with wearing only a “bath robe” (yukata). After our baths, we women change back to street clothes but the men remain in yukata for our dinner party.

As the four of us get into the elevator, I think, in the US there’s no way I’d get into an elevator with three men I didn’t know wearing only a thin, cotton bathrobe. When we get to the third floor, one of the men points me in the direction of the women’s bath.

Whew! A separate women’s bath. And it’s beautiful, overlooking Beppu Bay with a little rotenburo (outside bath) on the balcony. The best part is that the rinsing off station has shower heads with hot running water. (How I wish our apartment had hot water!) I treat myself to a luxurious shampoo before slipping into the tub for a good soak. Murakami-sensei shows up and we bathe and chat together before going down for dinner, drinking, and my first attempt at karaoke.

Murakami-sensei and I are feeling no pain after bath, dinner, and karaoke.
Murakami-sensei and I are feeling no pain after bath, dinner, and karaoke.

2009-12-10. I find a letter describing this same story.

Postmark: Beppu August 1989

JQS says he doesn’t feel like he’s in a foreign country. His life is pretty much the same. I don’t agree at all. The difference really hit me in the elevator a couple of days ago I went to a hotel in downtown Beppu for a reunion dinner of some Japanese teachers who had gone to Austin last year. Ms. Murakami was suppose to me me there with two other Austinites. I did some shopping first and got to the hotle a little earlier than scheduled but frazzled. I didn’t see anyone I knew and the hotel clerk didn’t speak English. “Eigo no sensei?” (English teachers?) I muttered, not having the slightest idea what to say. The clerk’s face lit up and he motioned me to follow him up to a room on the fifth floor.

No one was there but shortly afterward two men in bathrobes (yukata — summer kimono) showed up and introduced themselves. The could speak only a little English but they did manage to ask me if I wanted to take a bath before dinner. Now there’s nothing I desire more after work or shopping than to take a bath. Ms. Murakami had mentioned that the hotel had a hot spring bath and to bring a change of clothes. So I agreed and they got out a map of the hotel and showed me that the bath was on the third floor. In the picture it sure looked like the mens and womens baths were all together but it was too late to raise demurrers. And though I don’t usually mind nude bathing in mixed company it’s a little different when it’s with people I work with.

They left and I changed into a yukata. It was in the elevator that it occurred to me that I’d never get into an elevator of an American hotel wearing only a thin bathrobe (me, not the elevator). As it turned out, the baths were separate. The womens bath was a huge pool that I had to myself. looking out onto Beppu Bay. Best of all it had a hot shower, shampoo, and cream rinse. It was wonderful. I was still relaxing in the bath twenty minutes later when Ms. Murakami found me. I went with her to have another bath, this on on the roof outdoors. Then we had dinner.

After dinner, each person had to give a speech. Then they hauled out a VCR and a mike. Japanese men love to sing songs in front of each other. One man got up to sing. A music video, with the words in subtitle, played the accompaniment. It’s hard not to laugh at them because they take it so seriously. I had to leave early because [Akamine-sensei] who was babysitting JQS was picking me up. They insisted that I sing before I left. Now I can’t sing. And they searched in vain through their video collection finding songs I didn’t know. In the end I agreed to sing, a cappella, the only song I could thing of the words to because it comes on the Kamegawa PA system every night at 9PM and JQS and I sing it at home: Home on the Range.

Notes from 2009

I find it interesting that not only did I not use the word karaoke (which today is in the English dictionary) but that I had to explain what it was in such detail.

 

Saturday August 26, 1989

Accounts

¥1350 Echoes Restaurant
w/JQS, Murakame-sensei, Akamine-sensei
¥2039 black school shoes
¥1000 book: Even Monkeys Fall from Trees
15:44 Haruya Shoten
¥620 book: Once Upon a Time in Japan
15:44 Haruya Shoten
¥200 book: Flambards
16:09 Parco
¥1400 book: The Wind in the Willows
16:09 Parco
¥500 books on tape: Peter Rabbit
16:09 Parco
¥100 machine drink
¥97 consumption tax
¥460 train: Oita-Kamegawa
¥160 bread
¥4500 JQS allowance
¥12426 Total

Notes from 2009

Payday

My first weekend after my first payday. By keeping careful records all month, I have a good idea of how expensive it will be to live in Japan and how much money I’m actually making. My salary is $35,000 a year (¥360,000 a month), about 40% more than I was making in the US plus it’s tax free. I get paid in yen and I’m exempt from Japanese income tax because I’m a teacher and from US income because of the Foreign Resident Tax Credit. I do pay into the Japanese retirement system and private teacher’s association dues. I live in the school dorm and my rent is a paltry $140 a month, about 1/3 of my mortgage payment in the US. I don’t have a car so my transportation costs average about $10 a week in train fare.

I could spend ¥12,000 a day and still have money to spare. In the first 26 days of August, I’ve spent ¥104,213, or about ¥4000 a day.

JQS has a half day of school on Saturdays and so does my school. However, JET participants were not required to work on Saturdays so I usually used the morning to do my laundry and housework. When school was out at noon, JQS and I went with Murakami-sensei to Oita (where she lived) to have lunch and shop.

English-language Books

English-language books purchased in Oita City. August 26, 1989.

Now in the days of Amazon and Amazon.jp, it’s almost impossible to imagine or remember how difficult it was twenty years ago to obtain English-language books in small town Japan. We were hungry for reading material. Beppu itself had no English-language books available at that time. Murakami-sensei showed us a bookstore in Oita which had a small section of English-language books. (I just Googled the name on the receipt and discovered the bookstore is Haruya Shoten.) We also found some English-language books on the basement floor of Parco department store next to one of my other favorite stores, Muji. We had a book swap at the Oita Foreign Residents club–but those consisted mostly of current fiction: mysteries and romances–stuff I don’t read. And it was a long walk from Oita station, so I rarely bothered to go there. Friends sent us books from the US and I discovered Daedalus Books, which, at the time, had cheap, flat rate international shipping charge no matter how many books you ordered.

Mexican Food in Japan

Echoes is the “Mexican” food restaurant that Murakami-sensei wanted me to try. She was very excited by the nachos which were nothing but bland melted cheese on Frito corn chips. It was terrible. I’m trying to remember if I was polite about it but I regret to say that I probably wasn’t.

School Shoes

I had to have indoor shoes for school. I had been wearing the guest slippers all week. I bought the cheapest, plain black vinyl shoes I could find. My indoor shoes actually had a little heel. They looked liked ordinary shoes but I they could never be worn outdoors. M2 has the best shoe story ever.

 

Friday August 25, 1989

Accounts

¥1980 toaster oven
¥1295 2 liters of laundry detergent
¥330 laundry bag
¥398 calculator
15:02 Mr. Max
¥200 postage: 2 letters
¥1000 Harry Belafonte CD
16:10 K’ntetsu
¥148 consumption tax
¥5351 Total

  • Payday.
  • 8:30-11:40. Supplemental lessons.
  • Pick up photos.
  • Pizza at Takagawa-sensei’s house.

Notes from 2009

I remember buying this stuff in Beppu. There’s no train fare listed so perhaps I’d gotten a ride into town and back from Murakami-sensei. (We were still doing only morning supplemental lessons; the fall term didn’t start until September 1st.) The teachers frequently left school to run school errands, such as making bank deposits for various club activities and making home visits. They also used this time to run their own errands or just get away from the office. I don’t remember learning the trick until quite late in my stay but one useful excuse was to say you were going downtown to make sure that the students weren’t getting into trouble or hanging out at the video arcade. We, and all the shopkeepers, could recognize our students by their school uniforms.

Mr. Max

Mr. Max was the discount appliance store in Beppu Eki (train station). I needed a calculator for all my accounting. At the last minute I wasn’t able to bring my 512K Mac. Later I bought a beautiful curvaceous calculator at a stationers. I had it for years but it finally stopped working and I threw it out. I’ve never seen anything like it, before or since, and regret that I don’t have a photo of it.

Toaster Oven

Our apartment came with a two-burner gas range. American-style ovens are a rarity in Japan. I don’t believe I ever saw one. Almost all the food is pan-fried, braised, steamed, or boiled. Hardly anything is baked. JQS and I breakfasted on toast and coffee so getting a little electric toaster oven was an early shopping priority. Over Christmas, I borrowed a larger toaster oven from Murakami-sensei so I could bake fruitcakes.

Pizza Dinner

Takagawara-sensei was the head of the PTA or something like that. (Was she also the “mother of twins”? the woman with the high screechy voice?) To welcome us two Americans she fed us a pizza dinner. The pizza was smothered with raw onions. I felt very sick the next day.