That the United States began as a loose confederation of states is rarely remembered since states rights were trounced in the Civil War. But originally, these loosely united states had their own strong identities which were further eroded (some might say woven together) by the national highway system. Yet, despite the ubiquitous McDonalds, Holiday Inns, Wal-Marts and Starbucks, visiting another state can be like visiting another country, especially when you go to extremes of the East Coast or the West Coast from the Third Coast (as we Gulf states like to call ourselves).
I was born in California and grew up in the southwest, but I've lived in Austin almost 30 years. So my visit to San Francisco was filled, on the one hand, with a wonderful familiarity and on the other, with an intriguing foreigness. People there spoke with a "normal" accent--although I can't decide if it sounds normal to me because it's the Hollywood/broadcast TV standard, or because it's what I grew up with. Even after a lifetime in Austin, a Texas accent, or a southern accent sounds like an accent to me.
San Francisco is vertical; the spires of commerce direct the eye upward. Austin, horizontal, sprawls across a landscape dominated by sky, the buildings and trees squashed flat under the expanse of hazy blue. In Austin, you'd be crazy to try to get around without a car. In San Francisco, you'd be crazy to drive one. Buses and trolleys are frequent and cheap ($1.00 anywhere including a transfer good for 90 minutes). And pedestrians rule.
The pedestrian signals count down the number of seconds before the lights turn and you should be out of the crosswalk. Drivers are extremely patient (or perhaps just resigned) to yielding to pedestrian traffic. If you even look like you are going to enter a crosswalk, they stop. San Franciscans! Don't try this is Austin. You'll be squished flatter than a 'dillo in no time.
On the other hand, San Francisco drivers are extremely impatient with each other. They are constantly honking if another driver dares a moments hesitation when a light turns green. In Austin, you have to wait two or three seconds after a light turns green to avoid getting hit by the people running the red light. In Austin, I'll use my horn to warn someone, but I rarely use it to express frustration. The other guy might have a gun.
In San Francisco delivery trucks unload their cargo in front of the department stores downtown, and send it to the basements via chutes or elevators on the front sidewalks.
Downtown, especially south of Union Square and along Market Street, homeless people (men mostly) huddle in clumps on the street. Every once in awhile someone will be talking to himself, waving his arms, or yelling. All night long our hotel room (on the 9th floor) was filled with shouts and curses from the men in the street below.
Austin has homeless people, too. But, except near the University, they tend to stake out a street corner and stand with a sign, panhandling from cars stopped for the light.
Without a doubt, though, San Francisco totally rules when it comes to weather and parks. And there were no mosquitoes! I spent Friday the 13th at the Botanical and Japanese gardens in Golden Gate Park and was surprised that I could walk five or ten minutes without seeing anyone. And on Saturday morning the Mancunian and I walked along the bay between the Pacific ocean and the Golden Gate bridge on a perfect, sunny (but not hot) day, on the clean and almost empty China and Baker beaches watching the sailboats. It was one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. By comparison, the beaches of South Padre Island on the Texas Gulf coast are endless miles of flat, featureless sand, hot, tar-stained and packed with people.
Posted by M Sinclair Stevens
June 17, 2003
Comments
This was just in time as I am slated to visit San Francisco in July, also a tag along to a conference. Your comparisons of the two cities seems applicable to the Phoenix area as well, another horizontal city where the newer architecture is even flatter and better able to melt into the vistas. I have taken note of the gardens you mentioned and the beach walk. It is always good to know the less beaten paths! It was great to see you too, (or at least a two dimensional "you") beachside and smiling. Great writing. jbl
Comment by: jbl. Posted June 18, 2003 01:36 PM.
Hey M-san, When you mentioned you'd be visiting the JavaOne conference I wondered if you'd visit some of my old haunts in SF - actually, Yerba Buena gardens was actually one of the last places I visited prior to coming to Japan - http://www.jjcha.net/blog/yb.jpg - Anyhow, it sounds like you had a good time exploring San Francisco. It definitely is a special place and even though I absolutely love Tokyo life, I think I may return to SF someday. I also hope to visit Austin sooner or later! Best, -Jason
Comment by: Jason Cha. Posted June 18, 2003 01:55 PM.
Jeanne--I'm putting up some "postcards" from the trip on the WordsIntoBytes site; I'll let you know when some more info and photos are posted and send you some links for the gardens and museums I visited. Jason--of course I kept thinking of you and Kurt and wondering what you would think of what I thought of your old hometown. This time of year, the weather is certainly great for walking around in, although everyone said it was about ten degrees colder than normal. It felt so good! Here in Austin, you can't sit outside for five minutes without being drenched in sweat. We might have some nice things to see, but who would want to go outside to see them? If you do ever visit, come in late March--maybe for SXSW. It looks like we were sitting in exactly the same spot when we took our photos! At least, some progress has been made on the building on the left.
Comment by: M. Posted June 18, 2003 10:05 PM.
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A tale of two cities: Austin and San Francisco.